Restaurants
- Address: Campiello del Remer 5701
- Phone: 349 3365168
- Price: meals €35-40
- Hours: Thu-Tue
Taverna del Campiello Remer
Off the tourist routes and close to any Venetian foodie’s heart, you’ll find this vaulted cavern that opens onto a secluded square along the Grand Canal. Buffet-style lunches come fully loaded with affettati (Trevisana sausages and cured meats) and freshly made pasta for about €20. At dinner, abundant primi are served family-style with about a pound of pasta for two, and diners valiantly struggle to leave room for the grilled catch of the day and the obligatory tiramisu. Specials are recited rather than written down, and the sign says: menú turistico non ghe xe (there’s no tourist menu). Book ahead, or brave the crowds for an aperitivo and cicheti buffet.
- Address: Calle del Pestrin 3886
- Phone: 041 522 70 24
- Price: meals €40-60
- Hours: 11:30am-3:30pm & 6-10:30pm Tue-Sat
Trattoria Corte Sconta
The Biennale jet set seeks out this vine-covered corte sconta (hidden courtyard) for imaginative housemade pasta and ultrafresh, visually striking seafood. Crustaceans are arranged on a platter like dabs of paint on an artist’s palette, black squid-ink pasta is artfully topped with bright orange squash and tender cappesante (scallops) sticking out their red feet, and roast eel loops like the River Brenta on the plate with a drizzle of balsamic reduction.
- Address: San Polo 1911 Terà delle Carampane
- Website: www.antichecarampane.com
- Phone: 041 524 01 65
- Price: meals €30-45
- Hours: Tue-Sat
Antiche Carampane
Hidden in the once-shady lanes behind Ponte delle Tette (Tits Bridge), this culinary indulgence is a trick to find, and you may wonder who you have to, erm, know to get a reservation. The sign proudly announcing ‘no tourist menu’ signals a welcome change: say goodbye to soggy lasagne and hello to lagoon-fresh crudi (Venetian sushi), bottarga pasta, and filetto di San Pietro (steak with artichokes or radicchio trevisano ). (back to top)
- Address: Calle del Pistor 3912
- Phone: 041 528 53 24
- Price: cicheti €1-3.50, meals €15-40
- Hours: noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Wed, 7-10.30pm Fri-Sun
Osteria alla Vedova
Culinary convictions run deep here at one of Venice’s oldest osterie, which is why you won’t find spritz or coffee on the menu or pay more than €1 for a bar snack of Venetian meatballs – best not to get them started about spaghetti Bolognese. Enjoy superior seasonal cicheti at strictly fair prices at the bar, or call ahead to claim a wood table that has weathered a thousand elbows in post-pasta stupors.
- Address: Santa Croce 1919 Salizada San Stae
- Phone: 041 523 17 03
- Hours: Tue-Sun
Osteria Mocenigo
A young and enthusiastic team serves you in this smallish but welcoming Venetian eatery. Exposed timber beams and burnt brown floor tiles give the place a sense of warmth, but it is unmistakeably fresh and modern - no attempt at recreating ye olde Venice here. Try the insalata di piovra (octopus salad, around €12). (back to top)
- Address:Calle dei Preti 3764
- Phone: 041 532 72 09
- Price: pastries €1-3
- Hours: 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun
Pasticceria Tonolo
Dire B&B breakfasts with packaged croissants are corrected at Tonolo, which serves flaky apfelstrudel (apple pastry) and oozing pain au chocolat (chocolate croissants). Chocolate-topped beignets and espresso are filled with hazelnut mousse as rich as a Venetian doge at tax time.
- Address: Zattere 922
- Phone: 041 522 52 93
- Price: gelati €2.50-8
- Hours: 7am-10pm Fri-Wed
Da Nico
Gelato to go is half-price at the bar, but sunny days are meant for lazing away dockside with Da Nico’s gianduiotto, a slab of hazelnut gelato submerged under panna (whipped cream), or panna in ghiaccio, frozen whipped cream sandwiched between cookies. (back to top)
